Building modules
Flush End Track Continued
Running long trains
Flush End Track
Flush End Track Continued
Building 'waffle frame' modules
Module frame designs

We have a diagram of our track template design in PDF format. You are welcome to use this design to make your own template or as a reference for a new design that meets your requirements. 

S&SS template PDF

The original template design is by Joe Balint, and we are eternally grateful to Ray Mumford for drawing it up on paper and stamping out the first 20 templates.

                 Tools Needed:
  1. Drill
  2. 1 inch Forstner bit
  3. C -clamps (qty: 2)
  4. Template
  5. PC crossties or PC board
  6. Soldering Iron
  7. Solder
  8. Thick card stock
Using Template:
1. Using Epoxy, glue PC crossties or PC board to the deck (top) of the module where the tracks meet the end.
 
2. Place track at the approximate locations at the end of the  module but do not secure.
 
3. Loosely clamp the template to the module end with the card stock between the module and the template and the edge of the template must be flush with the front of the module. . Note: Top edge of card stock must remain below track level.
 
4. Adjust the template so that the top of the rails are flush with the top of the template. All tracks must be flush.
 
5. Adjust all the track so that the notches in the template are between the rails (an NMRA track gauge should be used to check the notches in the template, the notch is the distance between the rails.)
 
6. Use the mechanics square to insure the rails are perpendicular to the template on both the horizontal and vertical planes. Make adjustments as necessary to the rails and/or the template.
 
7. Temporarily secure the rails (solder)
 
8. Recheck the template alignment and tighten the clamps.
 
9. Place 1-inch Forstner bit into the 1-inch holes in the template. Drill each of the four holes only deep enough to leave a mark in the end-plate (appox. 1/32 )
Remove template from module.
 
10. Finish drilling the four holes through the end-plate (be extra careful to drill straight holes. A drill jig is strongly recommended )
 
11. Place four 1-inch diameter pegs into the holes. Place template onto the pegs to check the alignment of the track. (We recommend steel or aluminum tube 1' OD)
 
12. Use the mechanics square to insure the rails are perpendicular to the template on both the horizontal and vertical planes.
 
13. Perminantly secure the rails (solder)
 
14. Using large file, file rail ends flush with the end of the module (to avoid track damage file using only downward strokes !)
 
Additional notes:
Using PC (printed circuit board) plates or ties.
If you choose to use PC ties (I do for appearances ) then use 4 or 5 ties at the very end of the module. Space them out just like wood ties when you glue the down. DON"T use water soluble
glue. Tin the bottom of the rails and the tops of the PC ties. (If you overheat the PC, the copper will delaminate, NOT good)
If you use a PC plate try this;
Make the plate for the mainlines (if it's 2 track) 4 1/4" wide X 3/4" long. Place it at the very edge of the module so the tracks will be evenly spaced relative to the center of the plate. You can glue down the plate OR use small flathead wood screws. 3 screws, 1 between the tracks and 1 on either side. If you use 1 1/2" long screws, these can prevent the delaminating of the Luan or separation from the module end plate (VERY important).
When soldering the plate you'll need a large tip for the soldering iron NOT more heat. The large surface area of the plate will make it difficult to get a good solder joint without one.
And lastly make a cut in the PC copper between the rails, otherwise you WILL have a dead short...
 
IF YOU USE SCREWS ON THE PLATE, MAKE 2 CUTS IN THE COPPER ON THE BOTTOM OF THE PLATE BEFORE YOU ATTACH IT. ONE ON EACH SIDE OF THE CENTER SCREW.

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